Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Monday, September 14, 2015
They will be so much better than my previous arrangement.
Tuesday, September 8, 2015
Saturday, August 29, 2015
Friday, August 28, 2015
This is the next scarf – an extended advancing twill taken from “Exploring Multishaft Design – Bonnie Inouye”. It is finished and will be wound on to the cloth beam to join its friends whilst I weave the last scarf on this warp.
Tuesday, August 25, 2015
I feel very exposed when weaving a twill. Even the slightest inconsistency in the beat seems to show up as a warp coloured streak and even though I know that when the cloth is off the loom and relaxed and then after it has been finished most of the blemishes will be gone it still bothers me.
I have come up with a few things to help me. The first has been to stop listening to the radio when I weave. I listen to Classic FM and I suspect that the change of tempo of the music impacts on how I weave. The music and the talk from the presenters lead me away from the weaving.
Following on from stoping the distraction of the music I am trying to focus just on the weaving,to watch the weft being beaten in, to feel the tension in my shuttle and just to be with what I am doing. This is all a bit metaphysical but it seems to be working. On a more down to earth note, I am advancing my temple in a consistent fashion.We all know it should be moved after about one inch of weaving, but hey, when you are in the zone and there is a nice bit of Bach on the radio, three inches with no temple movement can creep up on you just like that.
My weaving software (WeavePoint) plays a sound whenever the weft colour changes. On the draft I have changed the colour every 18 picks (the PPI of my current project) so when the computer goes bing I know it is time to advance the temple. On my loom I can move the beater so I only have to advance the warp about every three inches; so I use three colours so that I know exactly where I am.
The combination of this and the vibes thing seems to be helping but time will tell.
In addition to all this I managed to get some weaving done today.
The herringbone scarf is finished (I fear that I might have been a bit too subtle in my colour choices) and I am now sampling for the next scarf. The photo below is of a variant of a Tricot weave and I fancy a bit of red. I shall try beating a little harder to make it slightly weft faced.
Sunday, August 23, 2015
The first scarf is finished (at the bottom of the left hand photo) and I have been trying a bit of herringbone. The last sample is with a moss green weft and it looks very effective in a nice understated way. This shall be the next scarf with some contrasting colours at the ends, looking a bit like the second photo – I hope.
Saturday, August 22, 2015
I have put on a 12 yard warp of Bendigo 2 Ply - Raffia (Bendigo Woollen Mills only do their 2 ply in 500 gram cones now) sett at 18 EPI for some twills scarves. I have threaded a straight draw on 16 shafts with a further 4 shafts for the selvedge. You can do a lot on a straight 16!
I have woven a sample trying out some plaited twills and for the first scarf I shall use the undulating plaited twill from A Handbook of Weaves- Oelsner using the shade Denim Blue for the weft.
Friday, August 21, 2015
I have never been completely happy with the lighting of my work as I am weaving. I have no problems during the day but when I have to rely on artificial light my arrangements have been less than ideal. I have used lights clamped to the uprights of the beater (are they called swords?) and some LEDs just above the reed. Quite good but the fell has always had a bit of shadow about it.
I bought a light designed to go under a kitchen cabinet and I have rigged up a sort of gantry that is attached to the front uprights of the loom. The result is brilliant (literally) and I have been weaving away quite happily this evening with not a shadow in sight. There goes my last excuse for an uneven beat.
The photo shows the left hand side of the arrangement and the LED lights on the beater can be seen. I shall tidy up the cable arrangement and fit a small pelmet along the top. At the moment the uprights are held in position by cable ties and clamps. When I find time I shall make some wooden clamps do that things look a bit neater. Clamps and cable ties are great for this sort of thing – one can experiment and move things around without having to harm the loom.
Friday, August 7, 2015
I have just finished this shawl. It is based on the draft from Handwoven 2009 May June – “Light & Lacy Huck Scarf. I used a 4ply knitting yarn (Morris Estate 4 Ply) set at 10 EPI and widened the draft so that the shawl came out at 22” wide. It is a 4 shaft draft which I wove on a straight 10S threading. All good but I have made it a bit too long and it is very chunky.
Tuesday, August 4, 2015
Friday, July 31, 2015
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
I have used then for one scarf and they are fine but I found that I was getting a bit of distortion of the cloth when the clamps were advanced (every inch) to keep up with the fell. This happens because of the increasing angle between the clamps and the pivot points that leads the cords to the weights. The mechanics of the whole thing are shown here and the picture below shows angle of the cord and the cloth distortion.
I have a solution which I think will resolve most of the problems. I have taken a couple of blocks of wood and attached screw eyes and four "legs" made from old Venetian blind slats (ideal for packing the warp when beaming).
The blocks sit on the side rails and are held in position by their legs. The cord from the clamp goes through the screw eye and the down to the weight.
The blocks can be moved back and forth on the side rail which means that pivot point, the screw eye, can be kept almost level with the fell.
It is all a little bit Heath Robinson at this stage but I'll weave off the current scarf and see how I go - I am sure that other refinements will occur to me!
I have just noticed that comments on this blog are not working correctly. An initial comment can be made but the subsequent thread doesn't seem to be working. If you have posted a comment and not received a response from me please accept my apologies; I will resolve the problem as soon as I can./
Tarp Clamps can be bought in Australia from Bunnings and they are also stocked by several camping shops.
Wednesday, May 13, 2015
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
The design is taken directly from Evening Sunset Scarf by Stefanie Meisel in Handwoven Sept/Oct 2004. I have changed one of the yarns (18/2 Merino replaced with 20/2) which should make little difference. This scarf will differ from the last one I did in that there are ruffles on the outer edge of the scarf.
The photo below doesn't do justice to the colours. The merino is a vibrant turquoise green and the non-shrinking tencel is two shades of copper. I will pay more attention to my lighting when I next take a picture.
This is the first time that I have used a "crocodile clip" temple and it is working very nicely. I have used a couple of sawn down wood working clamps to to hold the cord between the clips and the weights. The trick is to make sure that the arrangement clears the beater and doesn't get in the way when throwing the shuttle
Tuesday, April 21, 2015
The yarns are 18/2 Merino (the shrinker) and 8/2 Tencel (the non-shrinker). I have followed almost to the letter (apart from the colours) the instructions in the article by Stefanie Meisel in Handwoven 2004 Sept/Oct.
Here are some of the details;
Monday, April 13, 2015
Sunday, March 1, 2015
For the beige areas of the shawl I used a Crossley hand weaving shuttle. I wish that I could get another. It fits nicely in the hand and just glides across the shed straight and true with the smallest of flicks. It has a Honex tension adjustment mechanism; I think that I was told that it is made of persimmon wood.
I have two AVL 11" shuttles that I used for the coloured stripes. I bought these some time ago and have used them extensively over the years as they seem to be just the right size for scarves. I find them a little on the light side after using the Crossley and they are not very kind to any errant warp ends. As the inset on the photo below shows the tips are square rather than tapered and the Honex mechanism protrudes above the body of the shuttle. When using them I cover this protrusion with masking tape but the blunt end can still cause problems if I slightly mis-throw the shuttle or have a lazy warp end. I shan't be using these again until I have had a go at them with an angle grinder, rasps and sandpaper.
Over the years I have built up a small collection of metal tipped end feed shuttles that are for use with a fly shuttle. Because they have sharp metal tips they are not, in theory, that much good for being hand thrown but I decided to try anyway with some of the blunter ones.
The first one tried quite successfully was another Crossley which I have shown below. The tension of the yarn as it leaves the shuttle is controlled by fur like fabric that brushes against the side of the filled pirn and by some felt in hole though which the yarn leaves the shuttle. I presume that each shuttle was designed for a specific small range of yarn thicknesses as there is no mechanism for adjusting the tension. It worked fine with the yarn that I was using (11.5/2 wool). I don't have any pirns that fit but one from my AVL shuttle worked nicely enough.
The second metal tipped shuttle that I tried was a bit of a beast but it was surprisingly easy to use. It has an adjustable Honex type tension adjuster. I thought that it might be a bit hard on the wrists but I wove with it for over an hour with no adverse effects.
I shall blunt the tips of these two shuttles a little and then they can move from my shuttle collection box to my working shuttle box.
Tuesday, February 17, 2015
I am weaving bands of colour which will use up some of my old stocks of Bendigo 2 ply. The draft uses a 4 shaft point threading which I have extended to 24 shafts. It is all coming along nicely and should be finished by the end of the week.