I tried this way but could not mange to have the warp in my left hand with the cross neatly separated by my fingers AND select the correct ends AND tie knots at the same time. I got cramps, dropped things and generally got into a right royal mess. But I persisted and as I struggled along what Adam Smith wrote " Men are much more likely to discover easier and readier methods of attaining any object, when the whole attention of their minds is directed towards that single object, than when it is dissipated among a great variety of things" started to become true.
I gave up trying to hold the new warp but put it into open ended lease sticks made by taking the cross maker from my AVL warping wheel and attaching it to the beater arm. Picking out the next new warp thread became easy. I overcame the problem of disentangling the old warp ends as they emerged from the reed by combing them out and holding them in place with a mini reed from a tension box.
I wound little warp chains of 24 ends at a time; I wasn't that speedy but the whole operation became completely stress free.
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I tie on to the previous warp all the time. If I remember, I make a cross of the old warp by inserting lease sticks before I cut the finished warp off. (I tie the ends the lease sticks to the castle before I cut to hold it in place.) Then I use alligator clamps and bundle the old warp threads in one inch bundles. After that I proceed just as I would normally when warping front to back. Once the new warp's cross has its own lease sticks, I just tie the threads together one by one.
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