Friday, September 17, 2010

How to make a sticky warp

Sleying went very well and took no time at all. I used a small comb to straighten and sequence the threads before pulling them through the reed. I also used the comb when getting ready to lace on to make sure that all the threads in each bout (20 threads, 1" each each), were in place and tight before tying the final knot. Lacing on also went very well.

I spent a bit of time putting on my automatic tensioning system. I have advanced from house bricks suspended from an old shower curtain rail to proper weight lifter weights. It took a bit of time to get the tension right and I have made a mental note to go for the box of rocks solution next time  (as shown here).

Disaster struck when I started lifting shafts to start checking my threading - the plastic comb had induced so much static electricity in the warp that it was impossible to achieve any working shed separation.










I did some research (Handloom Weaving Technology - Allen A. Fannin and Weave-tech archives) and as a result of this I have applied children's untangle hairspray, put in some round lease sticks and shortened the distance between the back beam and the castle. After a couple of days rest the warp seems to have settled down and I shall have another go at getting the weaving started this weekend.

1 comment:

  1. The opening sheds for my 60/2 silk projects are always this way. It takes only a couple of inches of weaving to settle them out.

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